Turns out O'ahu is a tough place to surf in the winter... who knew?!
So often we train with folks who feel the need to talk, give excuses, "teach" or just waste time while rolling. I love you all, but seriously... #stfuat (shut the f*** up and train)! We are here to learn and grow; spiritually, physically and mentally... we can talk about life after.
I don't want to seem like an A**Hole or a gym rat, which is why I want to include some "Aloha Spirit". My brother lived for a few years out in Hawaii and while I was visiting sometime in 1998 or 99 I soaked up the culture and the Surf, (which I totally suck at... brah!). I was there around Thanksgiving, I know that because my brother and I roasted a chicken stuffed with orange slices and basil… only problem was, when we attempted to carve it we didn’t realize it was upside down, Ha, the days when I didn’t know how to cook! While my brother was working, I headed to an isolated beach in Kaneohe Bay, located on the north shore of the Marine Corps base, a treat many people don’t get to experience. I sat on the beach for a bit, taking it in, I couldn’t believe I was alone! It was like being on a deserted island (without the whole Wilson nonsense).
I should have realized that the empty beach probably meant that the conditions weren’t that great, but I figured it was just because I was on a military base and it was the middle of a holiday week. Turns out, it was the earlier assumption that was correct.
I did some small wave surfing in southern California, which made me think I could handle the big show... The surf was sporadic and didn’t have the best timing, the waves weren’t particularly huge, but they had a strong undercurrent and came fast and many. My little 6’ short board was like a guided missile - crazy! There was no way I was staying on that stick, I was held under for about 3-4 waves getting pummeled against the coral before popping up, taking a breath and getting hit again. I pride myself on my swimming and it was still terrifying. Needless to say, I sold my surfboard the day after I returned from that trip.
There’s a moral in here somewhere… I thought that because I showed up I knew what I was doing… wrong! Showing up and training are two very different things, if you want to be prepared, you have to put the time in without distractions. That means #stfuat. Look, I know the gym is fun, it’s a place where we get away from our lives for a bit, hang with friends and unwind. But we can’t forget that we are there for a reason, to progress in our discipline (or at least be respectful of others who are trying to). That is not to say that you can’t have a good time and fool around, but there is a time to play and a time to train if you want to “ride the north shore in the winter”.
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by: Chad Matthew Carlson / BRAWLSY
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